wander

Why wander?

I move and I move often.

I grew up in Michigan near the Great Lakes and spent most of my childhood playing in the woods behind my house and summers camping under the stars over the bridge to Canada.

I count myself lucky growing up near the Great Lakes as they’re like oceans - you can’t see the other side, and the other side is another country.

Every summer I would sit on the sand dunes of the Pinery Provincial Park in Ontario, Canada watching the sunset over the water knowing Michigan was on the other side. This vast body of water (Lake Huron) created such a curiosity in me, always wanting to know and discover what was on the edge of the horizon… and beyond.

allowed my imagination to wander and my desire for travel to expand.

The world is big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark. ~ John Muir

My sense of adventure increased when I turned 16 and bought myself a car. My best friend Mariya and I would drive as far as we could for as long as we could. This ended with random weekends in the Upper Penninsula (or “UP” as Michiganders call it), during high school we partied with kids hours away rather than with the local kids.

For college I moved to Grand Rapids because I fell in love with the Grand Valley Campus in Allendale, Michigan. It came complete with a huge river, meadows, sprawling forests, ravines for days and sunsets on Lake Michigan.

After graduating I stayed in Michigan for a while and then followed my first dream to move to Florida. I loved my job that drew me there, and the lightening storms are still some of the best I’ve ever seen but couldn’t say the same for the vibe! One night I had a dream I left Florida, so I did.

San Diego came next bringing with it a better job, immaculate vibes, longer hikes, taller topography, mountains for the first time. Learning how to surf, starting my Masters degree, taking my Yoga Teacher Training, getting certified in so many energy healing modalities and realizing how naturally gifted I was in these methods.

California inspired me and I stayed there much longer than I intended. California was my homebase that I left often and returned to just as often.

From California I started my intense international solo traveling - first to Peru then to Southeast Asia where I lived there for 3 months wandering throughout Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Southeast Asia is still my absolute favorite area of the world and I will always return there - Vietnam has my heart forever and I’ve written about my time in Vietnam here, here and here. Laos here, Cambodia here and Thailand here and here.

Being able to live in both places made my heart happy and settled my soul. One year I left for 9 months with no intention of when I would be returning and spent most of these months living in Bali, India, Nepal and Ireland.

Coming back to California for summer in 2019 I ended up falling in love at Burning Man and moved to Flagstaff, Arizona in January 2020. This date still makes me laugh because I moved right before covid. January and February were spent in South Africa and by the time I had returned stateside it was the season of the coronavirus.

Luckily for me, my boyfriend at the time had a dog named Toby who ended up becoming my 7 out of 11 horcruxes to my soul and so my time alone in Flagstaff with no friends (only for the first few months) was eased by my good boy.

When Toby crossed the rainbow bridge in January 2022 I decided it was time to move again, this time to Costa Rica. After living in the high desert for 2 years I was ready for a lush rainforest landscape. I had never been to Costa Rica before (but I did love my time spent in Guatemala!) but I have always liked to jump in headfirst into things and learn on the way down, it’s more fun, spontaneous and is more authentic to my soul. Costa Rica was beautiful, I spent my time going on road trips with friends exploring the country.

Because I wander as the wind wills and always follow the whispers of my heart, Costa Rica naturally and organically came to an end in October of 2022 and that’s when my soul (and friend Misha) led me to Puerto Rico, where I currently live. I strongly believe that when one door closes a window might open and something even more incredible could happen if you allow the universe to dream for you.

I have always wanted to see as much of the world as I can, for as long as I can, as I can remember. To me, it’s always seemed like such a blessing we were born on this incredible planet with its tall forests, deep oceans, epic sunrises, stunning sunsets and magical mountains.

Traveling has always been my version of self care, and if you’ve had sessions with me you know I recommend traveling to find yourself or even to lose yourself! If you’ve been my student then you know about my Intuition Game I accidentally invented while in high school - using intuition as a mode of travel to deepen your trust in yourself.

Traveling has made me a better person as when I was in desperate need, there was always a stranger willing to help me. If I was stuck on the side of the road with absolutely no hope of getting home, someone always came by and offered help. I call these strangers ‘travel angels’ (borrowed from my dad) as they all showed up at the perfect time and helped me purely out of the goodness of their hearts. I pick up hitchhikers because there was a time that I was one; I am patient with others learning my language because others allowed me patience when I was learning theirs. I help others as much as I can because there was always someone magically appearing to help me.

Traveling teaches you the only constant is chaos and once you jump in and allow yourself to enjoy the ride, rather than trying to control it, things can come together better than your wildest dreams and deepest yearnings.

My favorite story about going with the flow and allowing the universe to dream for you is how I accidentally hiked to Mount Everest Base Camp: I was living in Rishikesh, India and had just realized my 3 month visa was about to expire. My new best friends had intentions of traveling throughout India together so I had to go “next door” to get a new visa. Once I realized the country “next door” was Nepal I knew I had to hike to Mount Everest Base Camp with every ounce of my being. With absolutely no training or knowledge of the hike prior to this realization, I was ready and hiking to Mount Everest Base Camp in 3 weeks time - checking off my #1 must-do experience for my 30th birthday!

Traveling has opened my eyes, widened my horizons and expanded my heart. When you travel, your family grows as they are located all over the world, you care more about international affairs, natural disasters and relief efforts in other countries because it dissolves the boundaries between “them” and “us.”

Travel teaches us there is only “we.”

Phong Nha-Ke Bang

Photo by John Perez of the happiest girl on earth gazing at her newest favorite place in the world  

Photo by John Perez of the happiest girl on earth gazing at her newest favorite place in the world  

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is the most magical Narnian landscape located just west of the city Dong Hoi. Phong Nha was the main reason I wanted to travel to Vietnam - in search of the largest caves in the world, formed over 400 million years ago (the longest cave systems in the world belong to Mammoth Caves in Kentucky). Son Doong is the largest cave and while the others pale in comparison, they're still incredibly huge and beautiful. There are a ton of different options available for tours and hikes to any level of adventurer; activities like kayaking, swimming or jungle trekking and/or how long you'd like to adventure for. There are different companies that will take you out on tours and treks as well; Oxalis seems to have a monopoly on Son Doong treks; but their only option for exploring it is 5 days, around $4000, your first born, and the wait list is about a year so sadly, we weren't able to do that (although we did try to do it ourselves!!!) The website phongnhacavestour.com can provide more information regarding the various expeditions to the different caves.

Sneaky places in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park you can find when you don't go with a tour!

Sneaky places in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park you can find when you don't go with a tour!

John and I opted for no tours because we like creating our own adventure and honestly, I don't really like tours because you're always waiting on someone for something (on a totally unrelated note, I'm mildly impatient). 

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is absolutely breaktaking AND its free to get in to; you just pay the fees for the cave-attractions you want to see, which is great! I would highly recommend putting aside a whole day to motorbike around the whole park just to take it all in! There are so many other caves to be found!! Phong Nha's landscape is considered karst topography, which means caves and mountains have formed from the 'dissolution of soluble rocks such as limestone.' (Thanks Wikipedia!)

Our view from Duong Homestay

Our view from Duong Homestay

We arrived in Phong Nha January 7th on a long motorbike ride from Hue; we rounded a nonchalant bend in the road and the outline of Phong Nha appeared in the distance: a foggy mountain 'range' of huge free-standing mountains covered in lush green trees and vines. We were so excited! We went about 90kph just to shorten our already short jaunt there. We stayed at the Duong Homestay just across from the more well-known Easy Tiger Hostel. Immediately once getting there we ran right up to the nearest mountain and began making our ascent; we saw mountain goats (finally!) and I discovered a new cave, sneakily hidden from the untrained eye.

Our goal in Phong Nha was to 'relax' a little (whatever that means) and tried to take this area slower, so we only did 1-2 caves per day (the weather was quite wet so that also inspired a slower pace).

Cave Details:

The epicness of Paradise Cave and a super tiny person for scale-purposes

The epicness of Paradise Cave and a super tiny person for scale-purposes

Paradise Cave - is 250,000 VND a person translating to $11. You skate along the slipperiest path you've ever walked on and if that doesn't kill you there's a huge stair climb up to the cave entrance. If you survive the slippery path and the huge climb up the mountain you are rewarded by a downward flight of stairs into the mouth of the cave. The cave opens up to this huge area (my spatial reasoning is challenged so Google says...) it's 72 meters high and 150m wide. My cell camera didn't take any National Geographic worthy pictures so you can't comprehend the scale by any means, but the cave is absolutely stunning. 

Photo by John Perez of our mucky trek through the jungle  

Photo by John Perez of our mucky trek through the jungle  

Dark Cave - was also 250,000 VND per person, it's usually 400,000 V per person but we got a deal because (dun dun dun!) if you sneak in with a tour (not go with them but walk in with them) you can get a group price. Dark Cave was epic and unfortunately I don't have any pictures of it because if you bring something in with you it WILL break due to all of the activities! You start by zip lining over a river to the mouth of the cave, then you swim in the tropical blue water up to the entrance, then you adventure into the cave (its dark so you get a little helmet with a light on it) THEN you walk through this skinny little corridor (which is why you need the helmet; concussion is imminent without it) through sometimes knee-dee mud into an opening where you can sit in the mud baths AND guess what?! You float!!!! You can just lie back in the mud and the muds like 'hey friend, no worries, I got you' and you float. It's freaking awesome. Then you have a mud fight with all your new friends you made on the tour and get deliciously muddy and hilariously dirty. After happily playing in the mud for about 10-20minutes you wander through a different slim passage way and slide down a natural mud slide (which is only mildly painful) then on your exit from the cave you cannonball into the blue water again to clean yo dirty self off and take a kayak back; there you can pretend youre a pirate and commandeer other people's kayaks. On the other side of the river more zip lining and a high ropes course patiently awaits your arrival. (Google some pictures!) 

Phong Nha Cave - you have to take a boat to this aquatic cave but good news: you can combine this entrance fee (150,000V) to the entrance fee of above-ground Tien Son Cave and the boat ride (400,000 V) there you split with everyone on the boat (up to 12 peeps). We were the last people to get there and were able to sneak in with yet another tour! We made some awesome native Vietnamese friends who now call California and Texas their home! The boat ride to Phong Nha Cave is spectacular; riding in a valley, teal water splashes around you while you're surrounded by vibrant green fields and lush mountains, eating 'banh my' (which is the best sandwich you'll ever eat; more on that later.)

The jellyfish-like stalactites of Phong Nha

The jellyfish-like stalactites of Phong Nha

You continue your boat tour through the cave and go on the most epic watery cave adventure. Unlike Paradise Cave where it has mostly stalagmites (pointy mineral deposits coming from the cave floor) Phong Nha cave has incredible stalactites (pointy mineral deposits hanging from the cave ceiling). 

We didn't make it to Tien Son due to timing but the other available caves are Hang En, Hang Va and, of course, the coveted Son Doong which we attempted an expedition ourselves but were foiled by the knee-deep muck and the very long trail through the jungle which unfortunately, we didn't have time for. 

Where / what to eat in Phong Nha:

Pho foreva' and banh my (delicious!)

Pho foreva' and banh my (delicious!)

Don't eat at Tam Coc Bar, it's cute but not worth the food poisoning. Phong Nha isn't that touristy yet, which is great, but in the case of food its a bad thing. The food is held at pretty low standards so use your gut, your nose, and all your other senses to pick a place. If it smells funny, don't eat there. If you get a bad vibe, don't eat there. If it looks not-so clean, don't eat there. Food poisoning sucks. 

Tuan Ngoc is another restaurant that has adorable green lighting effects and paper lanterns, this place is so delicious and they had so many vegetable options!  

Turquoise boat on a teal river through an emerald green valley  

Turquoise boat on a teal river through an emerald green valley  

We had brick oven pizza at Capture which was tasty, and it was nice to have comfort food after eating a strict diet of pho and banh my's (which are delicious but I very much miss cheese!!!!) Vietnam is a cheese-less country!!!

Even though it's not super touristy TripAdvisor.com has helpfully rated some other restaurants like Gecko Bar and A Little Vietnam Restaurant!  

Banh my - pronounced 'bahn me' is a delicious sandwich made out of a baguette, 2 different slices of suspicious looking meats, meat spread, cilantro, a cucumber and mayo and some other things that I'm still not sure what they are. It's absolutely delicious and available everywhere in Vietnam. You can find them at restaurants but they're most easily found along the city streets in little carts made by wise old Vietnamese ladies. Anthony Bourdain says the banh my is one of his favorite sandwichs of all time. 

Pho - beef noodle soup that you really can't go wrong with. It's a hearty soup made with beef and yummy noodles that vary in size with bean sprouts, green onions and you can add spicy chilis to warm you up even more. This is to be found everywhere.  

So, if it's not on your bucket list, add Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. It rivals Machi Piccu & Yosemite as my favorite place(s) on earth. We only have single entry visas which are good for a month and in order to really immerse yourself in the epic nature, culture, history, architecture and general wonder Vietnam has to offer you would need much more time than that.

Insert lyrics to I See Fire by Ed Sheeran  

Insert lyrics to I See Fire by Ed Sheeran  

Cambodia

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We took a bus from Bangkok to Siem Reap about 5 days ago. I've been writing all sorts of random things but I have this necessity to talk about my travels chronologically, so I'm going to try.  

Photo by John Perez

Photo by John Perez

Our first experience in Cambodia was crossing the border with our bus mates, all from different counties. Crossing the border  was mostly just waiting in long lines only to get through and wait in another line. We saw many other backpackers doing the same. John and I passed the time by listening to Alan Watts wisdom. 

Back in the bus about 2 hours later we stopped for food at this amazing farm-restaurant where we saw the sun setting over the rice fields. Vines hung from the ceiling of the restaurant and cats, kittens, chicks and chickens ran around our feet as we ordered noms and drank Angkor beer.  

We landed in Siem Reap not to long from then and were told the bus couldn't drop us off at our hostel so we boarded a Tuk Tuk with a driver named Chen. Chen was nice, spoke English well and was expressive and fun. He dropped us of at our hostel and told us he'd meet us tomorrow morning to begin our Angkor Adventures. 

Photo by John Perez

Photo by John Perez

The hostel we stayed in was Garden Villa hostel, just around the corner from The Night Market and Pub Street. It had a pool and a hang out area with loud music and flashy lights. Super bro-y, but fun and the staff was very sweet and attentive.  

The next day we woke up and had an amazing breakfast of Dragonfruit, my new favorite fruit (sorry strawberries!) and eggs, and of course, coffee. 

Chen was waiting for us outside and he recommended us seeing the Floating Villages before Angkor. John thought that sounded exciting so we went there instead of Angkor. We spent the morning boating with Chen and a few other friends we made. We had beers on Lake Tonle Sap, the largest freshwater lake in SE Asia.  

 

Photo by John Perez

Photo by John Perez

After boating on the lake and buying rice for an orphanage near by, we heard that there were crocodiles so we went to see them. After that we realized it was a crocodile farm where they were made into handbags so that was a little sad, but I sent them my love anyways. 

 

On our way back to the land there was a mangrove jungle and we took a tinier boat through it. I love trees so much and Redeoods and Banyans are a few of my favorite, mangroves are as well but I've never seen them in person like I was able to in this jungle. Rowing through them is so incredibly peaceful and relaxing, being amongst the water and the trees is so serene. Then we got to climb some so that was pretty awesome as well. I made John go up first so if there were spiders he could take care of them before I saw them (the spiders here are scary as fuck) 

 

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Chen invited us over to his house afterwards and his wife prepared fresh fish with a peanut sauce and cilantro with rice. It was so delicious and we were so happy that we found such a nice Tuk Tuk driver (more on this so keep reading!) Chen took us home to our hostel and we jumped in the pool, excited we had had such an amazing day out on the water and among friends. 

the next day Chen picked us up at 330 am and we made our way to Angkor Wat for sunrise, a must-do / must-see if you come here. We walked through the gateway in the dark so we weren't able to see too much of the gate, just shadowy outlines of epic carvings and huge stones. We sat on a temple facing Angkor Wat and watched the sunrise. It was overcast so we weren't able to see too much of an epic sunrise, but it was nice being there doing the same thing that so many people before us have done for over 9 centuries. 

 

Photo by John Perez

Photo by John Perez

Exploring Angkor Wat was incredible. The size of the stones and the whole city is breathtaking. Through Angkor there are repeating symbols at mostly every Wat. My favorite was the nagas, or 7 headed snake that showed up along the walkways, under the Buddhas and over the archways.  

 

Photo by John Perez

Photo by John Perez

The mythology of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk is painted on the walls of Angkor Wat and portrays the teams of good and evil working together for a common goal. Both sides pulling on Vasuki, the king of the nagas serpents, who is tied around Mount Mandara, a cosmic mountain put into the ocean. Both sides are pulling on Vasuki to churn the ocean in order to recieve ambrosia. This is a super short version of the myth, look into it yourself, because it's an epic tale. Anyways, the nagas serpents are my favorite. 

After exploring Angkor and the East Gate John and I decided to 'off road' it a bit and began hiking through the jungles of Cambodia. Now I love hiking more than most things in life, but the spiders of Cambodia are 1. Way too healthy 2. Everywhere 3. Bright colored (so def poisonous) and 4. John came across two he swear had wings. So our hike did not last long and we had to get our Tuk Tuk back to save us from imminent death. 

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After that whole deal we continued on to Pre Rup, which was beautiful and where I took my lion picture on facebook. we went by East Mebon, but I didn't feel very well and it looked like Pre Rup so we just more or less waved at it. Then we went to Ta Som, I was explaining to John the metaphysical history of the earth and he was extremely curious about all the truths weaved into myths and legends. He wanted to know more so we did a past life regression, which was very telling. 

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After Ta Som we continued our journey to Neak Pean, a temple that you have to get to via a long boardwalk through a huge moat. John felt very at home here. 

 

After Neak Pean we were exhausted and came back to the hostel, where we got screwed over big time by our nice Tuk Tuk driver. He lied about the price for the day and the day prior and we lost some money. We were pretty upset but at the same time, it's part of the journey. If you ever land in Cambodia and a driver named Chen wants to help you, don't let him. But I'm sure most Tuk Tuk drivers are the same (dishonest).  

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We went to the Night Market and wandered around Pub Street. This is where all the foreigners go for gifts, trinkets, and beer.  

 

The Night Market does have some great products, I got really amazing ninja pants and the fresh fruit smoothies are delicious. We got beer at Angkor What? A bar down Pub street. Pub Street is basically Khoa San Road (Bangkok). ​

 

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the next day we opted for a more chill day, we switched hostels to save some money and landed at Cambodia Backpacking Guesthouse, down the street and over the bridge from our last hostel. We ended up stumbling upon Bambu Stage, an amazing little creative space and restaurant that was hosting Temples Decoded: Angkor Wat, showing how it was made featuring Nick, an ex-museum designer and Mala, the restaurant manager.  

Nick showed us, in a multi faceted way, how the temples were built, how Cambodians honor trees they cut down and how the spirits of the forest protect them. Later that night we (re)watched Graham Hancock's Lost Civilization episode on Angkor Wat and relearned how Angkor was designed to look like Draco the constellation and built as, of course, a giant astrological calendar to honor the Golden Age, 10,500BC. 

Photo by John Perez 

Photo by John Perez 

We headed back to Angkor the following day, this one on a motorbike, not trusting anyone anymore(!) and began with Prasat Kravan, a little temple dedicated to the Hindu diety, Vishnu.  

 

We hung out at Srah Srang, a huge aqueduct and gazed over the calm waters (see John's facebook post).  

We followed that up with Banteay Kdei, which I dubbed 'bantay kittehhhhh' for those not familiar with my vernacular or tendency to call things different then their namesake). Banteay kdei was really beautiful and disheveled, as most temples are here, and we read some interesting history that after the death of the Buddhist King, the next king believed in Brahmanism and had all the Buddhas destroyed, beheaded or hidden underground.  

 

From Banteay Kdei we headed through the jungle on a motorbike ducking to miss vines and narrowly escaping being hit by trees and stones to Ta Prohm, or as everyone calls it (and by that I do mean everyone, even the tour guides) Tomb Raider! 

Photo by John Perez  (honestly I can't remember where this is but I'm pretty sure it was Banteay Kdei!) 🐱

Photo by John Perez  (honestly I can't remember where this is but I'm pretty sure it was Banteay Kdei!) 🐱

Jungle Gate into Ta Prohm  

Jungle Gate into Ta Prohm  

 I was so excited to see this one and my dad, brother and I used to play Tomb Raider on the computer many moons ago, but it was so freaking full of tourists. There is a fence around 'The Tree' and I didn't have the patience to wait in line and get a picture, so I found a different epic tree and did my best Lara Croft impression. 

 

Obviously a dead ringer for Lara Croft

Obviously a dead ringer for Lara Croft

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm

Ta Som (?) 

Ta Som (?) 

We were able to sneak away from the tourists and go against the grain, stealthily running back into the temple where an Exit Only sign lie. There we found some peace and quiet amongst the ruins before the legions of Chinese Tourists took over.  

 

After Ta Prohm we headed over to Ta Keo, which is being restored, and found some stillness at the top as most people were not brace enough to climb the extremelyyyyy steep stairs to the top.  

As the motorbike adventure continued we did get lost in the backcountry, did ride through a huge patch of prickers which clawed at my legs and John's hand, did stumble upon a beautiful serene patch of open farmland, did ride up to some backcountry Cambodian houses on accident and did in fact, fall off when John got over confident about a wet sandy corner, but #wedidntdie, and that's pretty much all that matters.  

also our motorbike did die last night just before sunset but we were saved by a super sweet Cambodian couple who called a big Tuk Tuk so we were able to  'fit.' And by 'fit' I mean John rode on the motorbike, on the trailer, on the Tuk Tuk as we ventured back into the city of Siem Reap from deep in the jungles of Angkor. 

So far it's been crazy amazing and the adventure continues!  

 

begin at the beginning and go on

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Planes, trains and automobiles, or rather in our case: automobiles, trains & planes. From saying farewell to our roomies, fur babies and friends, we depart from San Diego with only our packs and far flung hopes for the long journey ahead.

We bid goodnight & good luck to sleepy Southern California while preparing for the long flight ahead, Lizzie-bound, to the other side of the world to visit my friend from college who's been living in and loving China for a number of years. 

The tops of palm trees hang in the cotton candy skyline of Los Angeles, we watch the sun, from a bus window stuck in LA traffic, gently set over the Pacific Ocean. We await our sun rise over foreign land; two days ahead of us separated by only 22 hours. 

Airports are always high energy and exciting to me. The quote from Love, Actualy always rings in my ears as soon as I step inside: "Whenever I get gloomy with the state of the world, I think about the arrivals gate at Heathrow Airport. General opinion's starting to make out that we live in a world of hatred and greed, but I don't see that. It seems to me that love is everywhere." Both me & John are feeling bright eyed and bushy tailed as we wait in line. Wearing the high-collared neck pillow I feel like a rattlesnake (naturally) and begin my best interpretive dance as such. 

The check-in guy at security looks excited for mine & John's trip, in fact, most people do. We are The Backpackers, people respect and fear us. He asks 'how this backpacking thing works' and we respond 'we're about to find out!'